• Complete all path-making and construction of archways, pergolas, etc. Prepare labels, seed-pans, and boxes. Seeds which take some time to reach maturity should be sown under glass. The best seed gives the most double flowers.

• Seeds should be ordered early, and wisely; a little of the best quality gives better results than a large quantity of inferior seed, of which a good deal is wasted.

• Soil round plants which has been loosened by frost should be pressed back.

• Dried leaves can be used among dwarf Roses and bulbous plants and over the crowns of Delphiniums, Peonies, Pyrethrums, etc., as a protection from severe frosts.

• Trim Laurel hedges.

• Keep lawns rolled, unless the weather is very wet.

• Manure in a dry crumbly condition makes a line mulch for Peonies. Pile it round the crowns and leave it to be washed in by rains.


• As soon as the weather turns warm, begin to use the mower on the lawn.

Herbaceous plants should be divided and replanted whenever there is a favourable opportunity.

• New Delphiniums should be planted this month.

• Place Dahlia tubers in boxes under cover. Sprinkle them with soil, and a little water, to encourage new shoots.

• Stir the surface soil of bulb beds with a fork.

• China Asters, Balsams, Phlox Drummondii, Lobelia, Stocks, Tobacco plants, and all other half-hardy annuals to be used for summer beds and borders should be sown in boxes in the warm greenhouse.

• Plant out autumn-rooted cuttings of Carnations, 12 in. apart each way.

• Divide Pofyanthus and Primrose.

• Lily-of-the-Valley crowns should be planted where they can remain undisturbed. They like to run alongside a wall.

• Lift and divide Montbretias, if this was not done in November.

• Plant Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Virginian Creeper, Clematis and other climbing shrubs.

• Sow Sweet Peas in small thumb pots in the frame.


• Sow Dahlia seed under glass.

• Hardy annuals such as Clarkias, Larkspur, Malope, Mignonette, Nigella, Californian Poppy can be sown.

• All Rose planting should be finished immediately. Prune, train, and tie up climbers.

• Sow Sweet Peas outdoors. Transplant Pansies, Violas and Snapdragons into their flowering quarters. Violas are effective as a carpet under dwarf Roses. Plant 6 in. apart.

• Plant hardy flowers such as Delphiniums, Coreopsis, Carnations, Pinks, Gladioli, etc.

• Stir the soil amongst spring flowers.

• Remember to sow flowers in rows, especially for cutting. This means less robbery of the borders.

• During the last week of March, Roses may be pruned in the South of England. Prune strong-growing kinds lightly, and weak ones more severely.

• Tea Roses should be left until the first week in April, as they are more tender than hybrid perpetuals, and new growths are therefore more likely to be injured by frosts.

• After flowers fade, bulbs in bowls will still need ,ome water. Plant them out in an odd corner of the garden.


• Prune Roses in the North of England and Scotland during the first fortnight of the month.

• Hardy annuals and biennials may now be sown in the open border. Sow thinly.

• Prick out seedlings of half-hardy annuals. After a week allow them all the air and sun possible, closing the frames before dusk in case of frosts.

• Plant out rooted cuttings of Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, and Violas.

• Pinch out the tips of the Antirrhinums to make them bushy plants of even height.

• Plant Gladioli, interplant with dwarf, bushy or carpet plants, such as Sweet Alyssum or Phlox Drummondii.

• Finish all lifting and division among herbaceous plants.

• Hardy Lilies can be planted, also Begonias and Cape Hyacinths.

• Sow seeds for summer fragrance—Sweet Alyssum, Balsam, Sweet Pea, Night-scented Stock and Mignonette.

• Sweet Peas need support. For the vases they are best grown in rows. Twiggy hazel stakes are good supports.

• Lift and replant Snowdrops where too crowded.

• Divide Kniphofias if necessary.

• Prepare for summer bedding. Lift bulbs and dig over the beds and borders.


• Lift the early spring bulbs carefully and replant them in an ode corner of the garden to die down naturally. They will then flower again next season.

• Hyacinths and Tulips can be treated in this way. Daffodils, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Scillas and Muscari may be left in the ground undisturbed.

• Flower beds not manured in the autumn should be dressed with well-rotted manure now. This should be well forked in before any planting is done.

• If manure is not obtainable, use 3 oz. to the square yard of the following mixture: 1 lb. Each of sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash; with 3 lb. of superphosphate of lime. Fork this into the top soil.

• Sweet Alyssum, Antirrhinums, Stocks and Larkspurs should be trans-planted from the cold frame. Distance apart depends on the height of the mature plants. Annuals grown for mass effect can be left unthinned.

• Bedding plants, such as Geraniums, Calceolarias, Lobelia, etc., should be hardened by allowing as much light and air as possible. Gladioli may still be planted.

• Prepare borders for bedding plants, and bed out as weather permits.

• Spring perennials like Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies and Aubrietia can be lifted to make way for the summer flowers. Divide up the old plants and set in a reserve part of the garden to grow on during the summer.

• Plant out Dahlias at the end of the month if the weather is favourable. Star Dahlias make good bedding plants for massed colour effect.

• Sow biennials. Sow the seeds in the open garden in drills 12 in. apart. Seeds for present sowing are Canterbury bells, Honesty, Wallflowers, Evening Primrose, Foxgloves, Brompton Stocks, Forget-me-nots. Sow perennials such as Coreopsis, Delphiniums, Lupins and Geum.

• Stake herbaceous plants.

• Mulch Hollyhocks if the soil is inclined to be dry.

• Plant Chrysanthemums.

• Sow Wallflowers in boxes or in the open.

• Dust Roses affected with mildew with flowers of sulphur.

• Give weak liquid manure to wall fruits.

• Sow Sweet Peas in the open for succession.


• Plant out Dahlias in well-manured soil. Roses are all in flower during this month and next, and need occasional doses of liquid manure. Apply when the soil is wet, after a shower or after watering.

• When cutting Rose blooms sever the stem low down. This makes finer blooms in the second crop.

• Watch for mildew on Roses. Spray with liver of sulphur, or dust flowers of sulphur over the plants.

• Thin out hardy annuals ruthlessly, as crowded plants never give the best results.

• Stake Carnations.

• Give support to such flowers as Shirley Poppies and Cornflowers. A few twigs will be sufficient.

• Newry-planted seedlings of half-hardy annuals may need water if the weather is dry.

• Early perennials should be cut down as the flowers fade, the roots being mulched with manure and watered.

• Most of the biennials and hardy perennials, such as Pansies, Hollyhocks and Delphiniums, can be sown in a shady part of the garden. Sow thinly, in shallow drills, allowing room to use the hoe.

• Keep down weeds by hoeing.

• Seeds to be sown this month include Anchusa, Aubrietia, Aquilegia, Coreopsis, Chrysanthemum maximum, Cheiranthus, Delphinium, Gail-lardia, Iberis, Linum, Lupin, Lychnis, Phlox, Statice, Sweet Rocket, Honesty, Wallflowers.


• Bud Roses.

• Sow seeds of biennials in the open border or in the cold frame, and when they are a few inches high transplant them to their permanent position, leaving 8-12 in. between the plants.

• Plant Colchicums.

• Sow Primulas and Meconopsis.

• Layer Carnations in the border.

• Perennials like Delphiniums, Phloxes and Anchusas will give a second crop of flowers if faded blooms are removed. Take cuttings of Hollyhocks.

• Ivy cuttings inserted in the cold frame will root readily this month.

• Lift Tulips and dry them.

• Irises can be lifted and replanted, if the soil is moist.

• Gather Sweet Peas regularly to prevent seed-pods forming. Hoe the soil round the plants.

• Stake autumn-flowering plants such as Sunflowers, Heleniums, Michaelmas Daisies.

• Pansies may be sown outdoors.

• Feed Roses with liquid manure diluted to a pale straw colour to produce a second crop of flowers.

• Increase Pinks by “pipings,” ie. short pieces pulled out at a joint and inserted as cuttings. Insert in sandy soil and keep moist.

• Take cuttings of all the early-flowering carpet plants such as Arabis, Aubrietia, etc. Pieces pulled out and inserted in sand, with no preparation, will root readily if kept moist overhead.

• Sow seeds of perennials such as Chrysanthemum maximum, Lupins, etc., in lines in a shady border, and transplant when large enough to handle.


• Sink all room plants to their rims in a shady border during absence on holiday.

• Carnations layered last month will need water in dry weather. Insert cuttings in sandy soil in the cold frame. Keep them close for some time, only opening the lights morning and evening. They will root in a few weeks, and can then be left exposed to all weathers.

• Early-sown biennials may be ready for transplanting to their permanent position.

• Bud Roses.

• Pansy and Viola seedlings can be transplanted to the borders as soon as they are large enough to handle. They will flower a little all winter.

• Prick out Polyanthus seedlings in a half-shady border.

• Hollyhocks and other perennials raised from seed must be kept free from weeds. Transplant them in showery weather where they are to flower next year.

• Spring bulbs should be potted from now onwards. Good kinds for forcing are Tulips and Hyacinths.

• Madonna Lilies, where overgrown, can be moved from one position to another now. Prepare the soil by deep digging, adding plenty of leaf-mould and lime.

• Show Dahlias should be disbudded and staked. Earwig traps should be set.

Lavender hedges may now be trimmed.

• Sweet Peas should be fed with weak doses of liquid manure.


• Make new lawns from seed.

• Plant Peonies in soil that is deeply dug and contains plenty of manure as well as some lime. The manure should be well rotted, and should not come into direct contact with the roots.

• Remove all seed-pods and dead flowers.

• Take Viola cuttings and insert in boxes of sandy soil. Heavy, sticky soil is fatal to the cuttings.

• Pansies and Violas for spring bedding should be planted now in their permanent quarters.

• Hollyhocks, Lupins, Coreopsis, Chrysanthemum maximum and other perennials raised from seed should now be ready for transplanting to the borders.

• New herbaceous borders should be prepared this month by digging deeply, incorporating manure at the same time. Bonemeal should be used on shady borders instead of animal manure.

• During the month examine the ties of budded Roses and loosen them where necessary.

• Trench new Rose beds for planting in November.

• Dahlias should be tied up, disbudded, and thinned. Earwigs should be trapped and choice blooms protected from the sun’s rays.

• Divide and replant Primroses, Polyanthus and border Auriculas.

• Plant out biennial and perennial seedlings to their winter or flowering quarters. They can be transplanted again in spring if necessary.

• Plant English and Spanish Irises in beds.

• Keep beds and borders tidy by removing dead annuals.

• Lift Gladioli that have done flowering, tic in bunches and hang up in a shed to dry.

• Trim back old shoots that have flowered, and tie in new shoots of climbing Roses.

• Plant out Double Daisies, Honesty, Forget-Me-Nots, and Silene.

• Plant Anemones, Crocuses, Montbretia, Narcissi, Snowdrops, Chiono-doxas, Scillas, etc., but not Tulips.

• Take cuttings of Ageratums, Antirrhinums, Blue Marguerites, Cen-taureas, Fuchsias, Gazanias, Lobelias, Zonal Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Pentstemons, Petunias, and Roses.

• Rooted layers of Carnations may now be planted out.


• As soon as Dahlia tops have been cut down by frosts, lift the tubers. Dry and clean them before storing.

• Lift Gladiolus corms, tie them in bunches and hang in a frostproof shed for the winter.

• Herbaceous plants of all kinds can be planted now.

• Old-established borders can be renovated where necessary.

• All half-hardy bedding plants should be taken from the ground and put under glass for the winter.

• Summer-sown flowers should be planted out at the same time that bulb planting is done. Plants that are useful for carpeting the ground of bulb beds are Silene Compacta, Polyanthus, Arabis and Aubrietia, Double Daisies, Cerastium, Pansies and Violas.

• All spring-flowering bulbs can be planted this month, including Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Fritillarias, Lilies, Grape Hyacinths, etc.

• If the mixed border needs renovating, lift out every plant, leaving a ball of soil intact round the roots, so that those plants which do not need division are disturbed as little as possible. Dig a trench in another part of the garden and heel the plants into this while the border is dug.

• Peonies can still be divided and replanted in good soil.

• Bush Roses planted now give better results than those planted in spring. Plant in deeply-dug and well-manured soil.

Biennials such as Wallflowers and Forget-Me-Nots should be planted out in their permanent positions, if possible.

• Withhold water from tuberous Begonias in pots, dry off and store in boxes in a frostproof situation.

• Lift Begonias and Cannas from the summer beds.’ Transplant Anemone Japonica, and Papaver Orientalis, if necessary. They do not like disturbance too frequently.

• Sow Sweet Peas for early flowering. Dig and manure ground intended for Sweet Peas next season. Leave the surface rough.

• Divide and plant out Montbretias in open borders.

• Winter Aconites may be planted, or propagated by offsets, now.

• Cuttings of Pentstemons, Anagallis, Calceolarias, Periwinkles. Phloxes, Salvias, Roses can now be struck.

• Lay new turf.

• Finish mowing for the season and top-dress lawns with fine soil and decayed manure.


• Dress with lime over the soil after digging.

• Immediate plantings can be made in mild weather of Wallflowers, Polyanthus, and Darwin Tulips.

• Sweet Peas can be sown in pots and kept under glass till the spring.

• Open out trenches for exhibition Sweet Peas next year. Trenches should be at least in. deep, preferably 2 ft. Loosen the bottom soil and leave the trenches open until Christmas.

• Order farm manure. Keep all the leaves and other vegetable refuse stored in a heap or pit to be dug into land that has a tendency to dry out.

• Lift Dahlias and Gladioli if not already done. Store in dry, frostproof shed or attic. Protect all plants of doubtful hardiness.

• Plant Tulips.

• Plant Peonies in deeply-trenched and well-manured ground.

• Pansies may be potted off as a reserve for filling up vacancies or for making new beds in the spring.

• The Spanish and English Iris may still be planted outdoors. Lilies of the Valley, Anemone (tubers), Canterbury Bells, Primroses, Pansies, Sweet Williams, Violets and Wallflowers may still be planted.

• Cuttings should be sorted over; those which require similar treatment during the winter should be placed together in separate frames.

• Plant Roses, but only when the ground is fairly dry. If the soil is too wet, heel in the new trees and await a favourable opportunity fur planting.


• Plant Roses in open in dry weather.

• Shelter beds of bulbs by a mulch of litter over surface.

• Press back young plants into the soil after each severe frost.

• Protect Christmas Roses and Iris stylosa with hand-lights.

• Look over bulbs and tubers in store. Remove any that appear to be diseased and destroy them.

• Sweep and roll lawns occasionally.

• Collect all rubbish and burn it. When the ground is hard, manure may be wheeled from one part of the garden to another as required.

• If bulbs send up leaves, the surface soil should be forked between them, and dried bracken or litter put over the beds.

• Use coarse sand or cinders to protect Liliums and Tea Roses from frost.

• Dig deeply all empty beds and borders and leave them rough to weather.

30. August 2013 by admin
Categories: Fruit Gardening, Kitchen Gardens, Uncategorized, Vegetable Gardening | Tags: , , , , | Comments Off on THE YEAR IN THE FLOWER GARDEN


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