General Treatment for Roses
Watering is seldom needed on heavy soils, even in a very dry summer. On light soils watering may be necessary, especially during a long spring drought and where roses are grown alongside walls. Evening watering is often said to be best for all garden plants because it reduces moisture losses caused by evaporation. Nevertheless, if there is little or no sun, roses may be watered at any time of the day. If the watering must be done in full sun, avoid wetting the foliage as such wetting increases the rate of evaporation. Roses will come to no harm if watered straight from the kitchen tap.
Give each tree plenty of water. Do not just sprinkle the surface; this will only encourage the feeding rootlets to come to the surface where they can easily become dried up. Where only a few rose trees are grown, a good plan is to sink a flower pot in the soil about 9 in. from each tree, with the rim level with the soil surface. Fill each pot several times and replenish every two or three days until the drought breaks. Give on walls about 3gal. of water each and standards not less than l gal. each.
These are growths from the stock on which the rose has been budded. They are produced chiefly on bush roses, especially if the original planting was insecure, and sometimes on climbers and ramblers. Briar standards produce occasional suckers, but suckers are frequent when Rosa rugosa is the stock, because it is a semi-woodland plant which spreads naturally by means of underground suckers.
As all suckers come from below the budding union they can be easily identified. Colour and number of leaves, thorns, etc., can be ignored. Cut the suckers right out at the point of origin on the roots or neck of the stock. Use a sharp knife, which will make a cleaner cut than secateurs.