Calendar of Garden Work for September
SEPTEMBER is the month for garnering (gathering and storing) and preparing for the winter. It is also the time for looking ahead to spring requirements.
Sever rooted layers of border carnations pegged down in July and plant them out in their new permanent quarters. As they tend to get leggy and rise from the, top dress old plants with fine or loam.
Plant out sweet William, Canterbury bells and honesty.
Takeof evergreens such as privet, laurel, rosemary and sage, making them 6 or 9 in. long with a heel of the old wood attached. Insert them in a frame or under a cloche for rooting in readiness for next spring.
Towards the end of the month clear the ground of summer bedding plants, fork it over and level or sprinkle bone meal at the rate of 2 oz. per sq. yd. before putting in bulbs or spring display plants. Plant out polyanthus, primroses, double daisies and forget-me-nots.
Plant bulbs in window-boxes and out-of-doors, particularly snowdrops, narcissi and muscari. To give their best results, the narcissus bulbs need to be planted as soon as they are purchased, as they do not like to be out of the ground too long.
Bulbs that were saved from indoor bowls and dried during the summer can be planted in odd corners of the garden to add spring colour.
Seeds of hardy eschscholzia, can be sown in the open in warmer districts early in the month., such as calendula, nigella, gypsophila and
Pick ornamental gourds as they ripen, and leave them in a light, airy place for some days to dry before varnishing them.
Watch out for mildew on roses,, and Michaelmas daisies, and spray with Bordeaux mixture if necessary.
Paeonies can be planted between now and November. Choose a position in full sun and plant in rich deep soil.
Now is the last opportunity to plant rhizomatous irises.
Lift the corms ofas the foliage dies down.
Harvestand clear the beds, putting the waste material on to the compost heap.
Liftand keep them dry until they can be put into a clamp made with the straw previously acquired. Make a good straw foundation in a sheltered position, and pack the tubers closely in a mound, on top of the straw. Cover the mound with a thick layer of straw and finish off with soil well packed down. Leave a small chimney of straw at the top running right through the soil layer to provide ventilation. Diseased or damaged tubers should not be included. The clamp can remain intact until mid-winter if necessary.
Sow seeds of winter, winter and for turnip tops.
Pull up tomato plants at the end of the month and leave in a sheltered place while the green fruit ripens, or cut the fruit off and ripen indoors.
Cut off the largest leaves ofsown in March in order to get a good crop of young leaves during the winter.
Towards the end of the month, lift maincrop carrots for storing.
Gather apples, pears, black currants, blackberries, loganberries and stone fruit. Store the keeping varieties of apples and pears.
Prune loganberries as soon as the crop has been taken off.
Grease band the trunks of fruit trees. The bands can be obtained from horticultural nurserymen. Put them about head height on the trunk of the tree or, if the tree is small or broken in the trunk, band each bough. These bands trap wingless insects that crawl up the bark.
Prepare the planting positions for fruit trees that are to be planted in November.
Dig over the ground deeply.
Now that the nights are getting colder, reduce ventilation and keep a check on the temperature. Remove shading, except for the most shade-loving plants. Stop damping down.
Clear the tomato crop. Clean out and disinfect the greenhouse before any chrysanthemums that have been standing out in pots during the summer are brought in. Towards the end of the month all such chrysanthemums should certainly be under cover, as nights can turn sharply chilly.
Start planting lilies in 6- or 7-in. pots to flower the following summer. Keep in an unheated greenhouse.
Sow seeds of annuals such as schizanthus, nemesia, cornflowers, godetia, marigolds and clarkia for flowering under glass or indoors during April and May of next year. Provided these plants are grown on slowly during the winter, and at no time given heat, they can be relied upon to provide a good display.
Continue to water and start to feed for Christmas flowering any cyclamens that were repotted in August. Pot on primulas, calceolarias and other plants that are being prepared for flowering at the same time.
Plant bulbs of hyacinths and daffodils, narcissi and crocus in soil or bulb fibre. Use the latter only if the bowls or pots are destined for an unheated greenhouse or the living-room. In any warm green-house the fibre will dry out far too quickly and it will be impossible to keep it watered sufficiently often. Put the pots in a dark, cool place or plunge them in a bed of fine clinker or ashes and leave them for a couple of months.
Cut out old and unwanted growths from greenhouse.