Calendar of Garden Work for November
This is the month for bonfires and for collecting leaf mould. , oak and lime leaves make the most valuable leaf mould and it is worth a trip to the woods to collect a few sackfuls.
Plant roses of all types, spreading out the roots and filtering in looseamong them before firming the soil round the stems. The existing soil mark on the stems is a good indication of the depth at which they should be planted. Standards need firm staking, and and ramblers-need to have their growth securely tied in to posts or walls to prevent the wind from tearing at the new roots before they are established.
Continue to plant young trees and shrubs as long as the weather is favourable. Always consider their proportions on maturity and arrange them far enough apart to prevent overcrowding later.
To help them to come on in time for picking at Christmas, protect(helleborus) from dampness and rain splashing by means of a cloche or a piece of glass.
Put polythene sheeting, dry straw or bracken on tender plants to protect them from frost damage. Cover wall plants With polythene sheeting to act as a curtain during snow or frost.
Put in deciduous hedge plants after thorough preparation of the ground. Plant very firmly.
Progress with as much digging as possible so as to have the ground worked before frosts or excessive rains come. If new ground is being broken up, turn in the turf or other surface growth, putting it upside down at the bottom of the top spit. Chop it roughly with the spade and sprinkle with a fish fertilizer, then replace the top-soil.
Heel overheads to the north for protection.
Look overin store and remove any diseased tubers.
Any fruit, except strawberries, can be planted in November. Prepare the ground thoroughly, stake the plants if necessary and always be sure to plant very firmly.
Root-prune vigorous or unfruitful top fruit by making a trench round the tree about 3 or 4 ft. away from the trunk and severing any roots that cross the trench. One side of the tree can be root-pruned now and the other side next year. If trees are growing against a wall, root-prune in a large semicircle.
Maintain a dry atmosphere, especially now that theare flowering, but close the ventilators during fog and always at dusk. Try to keep a temperature of 45° F. (7° C.) even at night.
Bring in crowns ofand for forcing. Put them into boxes of dampened loam and place the boxes under the staging. Arrange sacking or boards over them to exclude the light and so encourage pale, tender growth.
Early Roman hyacinths and Narcissus Paper White should now be ready for bringing into the greenhouse. They should, however, first be acclimatized by spending a few days in a cold frame. Roman hyacinths need special care so that they do not grow too grassy. To avoid this keep them fairly near to the light and do not over-water.
Start to bring into the house in batches other bulbs planted in bowls and pots during September and October, so as to provide a succession of blooms later on.
Pot upas soon as they arrive. They do not like to be kept out of soil too long. Many are imported and therefore may not be available until December or even early in the New Year, but the sooner they are potted the better. If the bulb scales are soft on arrival, plump the bulbs up a little by first plunging them in moist peat in a seed box and then syringeing them daily with soft water. Once they are firm pot them immediately. Plant out in the spring.
Watch for white fly. Control with D.D.T.
Water plants with particular care at this time of year as they react unfavourably to excess supplies.