Brick paths across the lawn
General technique is the same as for continuous slab paths across the lawn, but with a slightly deeper excavation. Bricks can either be laid touching each other or with a small gap—say 9.5 mm (1”)—as shown above. In the first case you brush in sand and hope that nowill grow or, in the second case, you encourage grass to grow with the effect that after a while less of the brick is visible. Fill the open joints by brushing in fine . Water the path to compact (and recess) the joints. When dry, brush in grass seed and follow with a top dressing of fine soil.
Gravel paths: edged
A gravel path through cultivated beds is best laid between upstanding kerbs (or very broad flat kerbs: see Flat kerb paths below) so that the soil from cultivation is less likely to be spilled on it and so that it can be more easily swept. It is essential to have a heavy roller to make a gravel path. If you do not have one and do not wish to buy one, you can hire one for the job.
For timber kerbs, the planks and stakes may be treated with Green Cuprinol (which is non-toxic to plants) for longer life but it is better — much better—to find a timber yard that sells timber that has been pressure-impregnated with a preservative.
Drainage is a difficulty and it is usual— and not unreasonable—to put up with a little temporary puddling at the edges until seepage takes place between the boards and the gravel. Lay the path with a camber to avoid puddles.
Gravel paths are not very suitable for gardens on steep slopes because a heavy downpour of rain will scour away the surface